Summer at Last!
Our plan on returning to the boat in Stavanger was to head round to the South Norwegian coast where , in summer , the temperatures are higher and the climate less windy. The continental high that sits over Russia and Poland in the summer tends to fend off Atlantic weather systems , at least that was the theory! In practice we had a few days of anchoring up and never even going on deck whilst the elements raged outside, but gradually as we have come east the temperatures have risen and the winds eased off, and the last week has seen us in tropical rig of shorts and tee-shirts. Even down here the locals say they have had a miserable summer until now, and whilst we bask in the sunshine, most of Norway is going back to work and missing it. I think the change is due to the jet stream moving back North to knock seven bells out of Shetland and Faeroe.
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| From Then Norway |
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| From Risor |
For the last few days we have been tied up to a rock in the skerries outside the pretty town of Risor, canoeing in to the wooden boat festival that takes place here every year. Norway is very proud of its maritime heritage, and of course before oil brought prosperity , much of the population lived and worked along its coastline and boats were perhaps the major form of transport as well as being workhorses for the fishing industry. They developed a particular form of sailing boat as a rescue craft and pilot boat named after its principle designer – Colin Archer – and there were 5 superb examples at the festival , including the very first , the eponymous “Colin Archer” .
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| From Risor |
There were also 2 replica Viking ships present – fine looking craft – one of which was a copy of the Oseburg ship , (another copy of which ended up abandoned on Unst in Shetland , where Lynda and I once helped a shipwright re hang her rudder). The other was the Gaia , built by none other than the crazy Norwegian who had rowed into Lerwick whilst we were there, and sailed by him to America and back. She is fitted with an engine now, but in all other respects is absolutely authentic and a truly awesome machine. She makes just 3 knots under oars but under sail has been clocked at 17 knots and I would give my eye teeth to sail her in a good blow!
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| From Risor |
In one of the exhibitors tents was a boat builder from just South of Bergen showing what looked to my eyes like a Shetland fourareen. In fact she was a bit narrower, more like the Faeroese rowing boats. The builder explained that his area of Norway had been building these boat for Shetland and Faeroe ( a bit wider for the sailing versions , a bit finer for the rowing boats ) since the 16th century , eventually sending them as a kit of parts long before Ikea had the idea of a flatpack! The boats have scarcely changed since Viking times other than to ship a stern rudder rather than a starboard hung steering oar ( the “steerboard!”) and are marvels of minimalist design, yet exquisite to look at.
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| From Then Norway |
We seem to be going round the coast at the same speed as the Sjokurs , a ship that tours the coastline , scooting through the inner leads at a scary pace, small places and putting on a television programme about each area . It is enormously popular as everyone tunes in to see their friends featured on the programme, and wherever she goes the ship is followed by an armada of craft waving Norwegian flags and joining in a huge party wherever she stops. Norway may not be so dependant on these coastal communities for her wealth any more, but this programme ( and the beautifully maintained coastal houses and villages) shows how important they remain in the hearts of the nation.
We have about 50 more miles of archipelago wandering before we come to the mouth of the Oslo fjiord . Do we turn left and visit the capital , or turn right and wander down the Western Swedish archipelago to Denmark. As ever , I expect the weather will decide .