“Big Weather” racing
These notes are aimed at folk who are new to Sigma 38’s , or
those who find they are not in the chocolates when it blows 20
knots plus. They represent one very fallible persons current best
guess , and so can certainly be improved on – in fact if they
stimulate some discussion and disagreement I will be delighted.
They assume a correct rig set up – a topic all of its own,
but always have max forestay length as a basis for your set up.
Upwind
Sail shapes are the critical factor.
Between 20 –30 knots I would be using a No 2 and a full main (assuming a full crew and Solent type seas). Bigger seas would require earlier reefing to
enable bigger course changing.
Genoa – At the
bottom of the range in flat water I would sail with a max draft
between 40 – 50 % to get good pointing. As the wind builds and
the seas increase , pull on the halyard tension to get the draft
forward to 30% - it’s a much more tolerant shape. The trimmer should keep the leech just inside the spreaders
until the top of the range when the top can be twisted off to
match the main. Beware – Modern sail materials require much less
halyard tension than Dacron sails – too much and you just ruin
the sails. Sheet one hole aft if you get overpowered.
Main –Unlike the genoas ,this sail has to cope with all wind
strengths. In these conditions we want a minimum drag , minimum heel inducing shape. Start with the
outhaul full on , some backstay , enough vang to keep the upper
leech moderately closed , and close it the last bit with the fine
tune on the main . Traveller will be just below the centre line
, moving to lee as the wind increases. As this happens pull on backstay and you will notice the sail flatten due to the
luff curve being pulled out . This will open the leech , so close
it 50% with the vang. I pull this on until the boom begins to
bend , which also puts bend in lower down the mast so you can
scarcely see any shape in the lower 1/3rd.Always let
a bit of vang off before you bear away. If you adjust the backstay
you will nearly always have to adjust the vang- ie if you need
more power you might let off a bit of backstay which puts more
luff curve back into the sail, and thus more power – but the speed
drops. Why? Because it also tightens up the leech – possibly too
much so that it stalls – until you release a bit of vang and off
you go like a rocket! You may need to pull on halyard or use Cunningham
to keep it “draft forward “ ( don’t do this too early or you will
lose pointing- use it in response to weather helm). By this time
the main should be “bladed” – an almost flat aft end of a combined
aerofoil that is tonking you to windward at 6.5- 6.7 knots with
relatively little heel. Now HIKE!
In steady conditions
set the main up and play the traveller – if its gusty you might
have to ease the fine tune as well. Sail on the speedo . MY current
target speed is 6.7,- any lower than this I drop the traveller
down till the speed builds
then bring it up again – but seldom to the midline unless I want
to squeeze someone. Cant
get the speed ? Put the bow down a bit so leeward telltails stall
a fraction. Once we have the speed the keel works and we can point
higher Is the sheet too tight? ( all telltales should
be flying in these conditions) , still no speed – check the jib
– too tight is v slow , too loose is just a bit slow. Cant point
? Check jib draft – is it sheeted in enough – adjust it – any
better ? – no ? is main too twisted ? - close leach with sheet or vang and watch the speedo. Play the main fine tune and or traveller to keep the helm light
, the heel comfortable and
the speed up. These adjustments are a continuous iterative process
that never ceases. The hikers call the shifts, gusts laylines and tactical options , the trimmers talk
numbers and shapes to
the driver and the tactician watches for shifts
and calls for footing
or pointing or VMG sailing . 9 brains are better than one!
Downwind
Control is the issue. Broaching is the problem and understanding
why we do it is crucial.
Leeward Broach
This happens when the wind is between the quarter and the beam , the boat heels, the rudder stalls and we round up and
fall over . Prevent it with an experienced hand on the vang so
that if a gust or wave threatens to heel the boat – the top of
the main is twisted off and we live to surf another day. In really
extreme conditions , leave the jib up and slightly over sheeted
to help keep the bow down – and stop the spi wrapping round the
forestay if all does not go to plan! If the vang is released and
the rudder still stalls the spi trimmer needs to let off 3 metres
of sheet in a run and the guy man lets the pole forward ( but
not so it touches the forestay – have you marked your sheets and
guys?).
If you go over , the
sheet and the vang are let fly and you get under control, BUT
get the vang back on before you get downwind again or you will
gybe broach ( see on!) . If you don’t come up, release the spi
halyard (have you flaked it?) and pull the sheet on hard. If the
spi is always attached by two corners it is easy to retrieve –
let go more than one corner and you are in trouble!
Practice sailing on the edge in 15 and then 20 knots – and try all these
things – it will give the crew tremendous confidence in 30 knots
to have thought it all through beforehand.
Windward or Gybe Broach
This can seriously spoil your day! Don’t go sailing on a windy
day without talking it through.
It happens when running deep and the sails take over and heel you to windward , stalling the rudder
out and that very low boom comes scything lethally across.
There are two causes :
1. Main not
sufficiently vanged. The top twists off and causes a heeling moment
to windward . Either vang it harder or sheet in.
2. The spinnaker
is flown too far to windward . If the helmsman is squeeking or
you fancy keeping a head on your shoulders , keep the pole trimmed
further forward than ideal and oversheet. If you start to roll,
vang on , guy forward 6 inches and wind on that sheet.
The irony is that in light to moderate winds , it is fast to
have a twisted main ,the pole well back and the boat heeled to
windward . However it takes a superhuman crew to pull this off
in a blow.
If it does go wrong, hit the deck .Nothing else matters ! When
the boom is over , pull on the new backstay , release the old
backstay , blow the vang , release spi halyard ( I hope you flaked it or have a knife handy) - and pull on both sheet and guy - in precisely that order( but nearly simultaneously!). The
spi will float gently over the water if you have BOTH sheet and
guy in tight and the halyard off – if you don’t, you will be fishing
again!
The
Hoist
Hoist on a very broad reach . Too tight and you will broach
out – too deep and the
sheet trimmer may not get it in quick enough and you might gybe
broach. The guy trimmer wants to get the pole no further than
45 degrees back from the bow ( to help avoid that gybe broach)
and the sheet trimmer wants to sheet hard for the first 2/3rd of the hoist to avoid a twist – then dump until
it is up , the sheet on again very very quickly. The halyard man needs to be a blur!
The
Drop
In exreme conditions we turn down to a very broad reach , spike
the tack and retrieve between the boom and the foot ( you need
a loose footed sail).Before the drop , lead the lazy guy through
behind the shrouds but in front of the runner and keep the crew
safe to windward. It’s a doddle.
The
Gybe
Don’t gybe the kite above 25 true unless you don’t make ANY
mistakes at 20 knots! Drop it and rehoist. If you know how to
gybe the kite safely and consistently in 30 knots – write your
own article.
Centre the traveller , sheet in before the gybe with mainsheet
falls immaculately flaked, and once the boom is 20 degrees back
, let off some vang to depower the gybe ( and blow it completely
if you broach out)– but get it back on FAST once the boom is over
and BEFORE you are dead down wind . Keep heads down and clear
of arc of main sheet. It should be in enough before the gybe to
avoid a redundant loop snagging your unfortunate crew – but NOT
knotted on the cockpit floor.
30
Knots
Only fly the kite if it’s a very broad reach – tighter and
you will need to let off the vang, – deeper and the kite needs
to be seriously forward in the gusts with loadsa vang – but play
safe and avoid dead downwind until you have confidence in your
control. Wear life jackets and brief everyone about that boom
.
Try it all first when you are not racing - its
fun!
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