A Wild Night in English Harbour
Life has been very kind to us over the last few months , allowing us to spend our time in a huge variety of anchorages that provide a gorgeous tropical view in daylight , and by and large, sheltered peaceful nights. In effect we were overdue for a bit of adventure.
From English Harbour |
Bryony is due in 24 hours time and so , naturally , the drought that has affected the Caribbean has come to an end . She had the same effect in Australia and Brazil , and really should be studying climatology so that she has some scientific underpinning to profit by this remarkable talent. The culprit was a little secondary low that formed to our NW and sent bands of heavy rain with gusty squalls our way. We beat our way round to English harbour to await her , arriving looking like drowned rats to find it pretty crowded with boats sheltering and waiting for the Classic boat regatta which coincides with Bryony’s stay . Nonetheless , we found a spot and laid out a second anchor to fine tune our position. Ironically we needn’t have bothered, as our nearest neighbour , a trimaran with no one on board , twirled round in one of the more vicious squalls , plucked up her anchor and started dragging through all the moored boats and out to sea leaving us more room than anyone else in the anchorage! There was lots of shouting , but no one seemed to be doing anything so I climbed aboard , let out loadsa chain and she stopped for a while.
The entrance to English harbour is narrowed by a reef on the E side , and in normal conditions its really quite nice if you anchor just inside this as you get clear water , good snorkelling and the best cooling breeze in the anchorage. Now however the vicious gusts were blowing straight on to the reef , and a large heavily sparred gaff rigged 12 metre was laying so close that her counter was almost over the breaking waves. I rowed over to see what was up and it seemed that they had no engine , had deployed both their anchors , and didn’t dare try to kedge clear in case the remaining anchor dragged. Out came our 3rd anchor , the monster , and in the dusk we kedged her clear , reset one of her other anchors and left her lying securely to all three.
Back on the boat , with the rain beating like a military tattoo on the awning , we dried out as best we could and treated ourselves to a hot rum toddy ( normally the sun downer is taken with as much ice as you can get hold of!) , and turned in feeling quite smug because of our good position and two anchors. We were less smug at 0400 when another trimaran ( a singlehander ) banged into us and proceeded to motor around us dragging his useless anchor round the sea bed as if he was trying to pull our hooks out as well! The rain was torrential , but surprisingly warm as I climbed aboard the tri, persuaded him that as his line was now wrapped around my keel he should buoy it and slip it , helped him re anchor ( upwind of someone else!) , retrieved his first anchor , set that for him as well and rowed back to drip dry in Festina .
The wind was forecast to do a cyclonic veer through 270 degrees so the next day we decided to take a marina berth where we could leave the boat without further risk of assault by multihull , and meet Bryony with peace of mind. It is however like no other marina we will ever visit as we are lying stern to a !17th century Naval dockyard complete with the original buildings , with old anchors and capstans laid out midst lawns and palm trees. Our lines are tied to 300 year old cannon sunk into the ground as bollards. Some of our neighbours are beautiful American schooners and ketches , the crews of which are busily polishing and varnishing and putting the last touches before the judging for the Concours D’Elegance tomorrow. Next to them is a 200 ft 3 master with a huge superstructure , and even worse is a similar sized motor yacht that looks like a block of flats and is reputed to belong to Eric Clapton. I guess he always did have debatable taste!
From English Harbour |
Even next to the “normal “ boats we look tiny , but we are used to that. It looks like the weather will settle down soon , so after some more rubbernecking at the gorgeous classic yachts we hope to take Bryony on another circuit of Antigua’s wild places .
Hi Philip, I was just wondering what ground tackle you carry. My own Manson supreme seems very good but I have been let down by my secondary 25lb CQR in sand in 50 knot gusts and flat sea with all my scope out. I am intrigued to know what the “monster” is. Say hello to Bryony from us.
John
Hi John
The Monster is a 35Kg CQR – but I reckon thast your manson or one of the other new Kiwi types with a roll over bar would be better . We tend to use multiple anchors if it blows hard , plus a weight we lower down the ropes – all of whiich are recoverable manually seperatly – but nonetheless we can deploy a very significant combined wt of anchor and chain.
Philip