Atlantic islands pilotage
Well our forecast was nearly spot on. And it’s amazing how “nearly” makes such a difference. The wind came in 2 hours ahead of schedule – which in forecasting terms IS spot on, but it was from the W not the SW. This meant that our course was a beat, not a fetch. It also got up to 26 knots so we postponed our arrival at La Gomera yet again and snuck into a little bay at the South of Tennerife and anchored after 50 miles.
Passage making in these parts is deceptive as the Islands are so high you can see them from 50 miles away, and you have to keep reminding yourself that they are in reality as far away as Cherbourg is from the Isle of Wight. It can also get quite boisterous as the wind is funneled and compressed between the high mountains. This in turn means that anchoring in any comfort requires a good forecast, an understanding of the thermal/compression winds, a swell forecast (usually at right angles to the wind) and a bit of luck that the only tenable place isnt overcrowded by others seeking shelter. As a result many folk spend much more time in Marinas than they had expected/budgeted for. One interesting thing I have learnt is that catamarans seem much less effected if they lie beam on to a swell working its way around a headland, whereas a monohull can roll horribly in these conditions. Our Tennerife anchorage was pretty good in these respects and treated us to the most spectacular sunset as it reflected off the clouds swirling round Pico Teide – at 3718m a truly impressive bit of rock!
The next day the wind was back in the NE and we set off on a run down the last bit of the East coast of Tennerife. The wind on the SW coast was initially calm, then onshore (S) so we changed from the reacher to the No 1 and beat our way slowly out into the channel. The wind then swung W, NW, N and finally NE and we could see white horses ahead so a rapid change to the No 3 and 2 reefs kept us on our feet and we fetched the final 15 miles at 8 knots, getting soaking wet and having to wear full oilies for the first time for months.
Why all this detail? Well it illustrates the advantages and disadvantages of our craft in this cruising role. We managed to keep the boat sailing in both complex light conditions with a disturbed sea and then some pretty fresh winds (and incidentally overtook and stayed ahead of a big 44 ft Bavaria) but it took 3 headsail changes. A roller furler would have been easier, even if it looked horrible when it blew and there is little doubt that the ultimate cruising mod to a Sigma would be a furling headsail and an inner forestay for a hanked on working jib and storm sail.
But we dont have it – and it was a glorious invigorating sail that brought us to San Sebastien on the little Island of La Gomera. For once the books are right – it is utterly charming and if our early impressions are confirmed – worth spending a while exploring.